Original paddle for my Triumph
Tuesday, 4 December 2012
Wednesday, 31 October 2012
Inspect the gasket surface
Inspect the gasket surface of the float chamber carefully for damage. The gasket surface should also be inspected for flatness. Light damage and irregularities can be remedied by dressing the surface using fine abrasive paper on a flat surface, or fine grinding paste on a plate of glass. If the surface is reduced too far however, the depth of the slot for the float spindle will become too shallow and may cause difficulties with the operation of the float. Over-tightened Allen bolts, which are a popular modification, can bend the lugs and cause an air leak within the float chamber into the idle circuit. If the lugs are bent the float chamber should be replaced.
Inspect the gasket surface
Inspect the gasket surface of the float chamber carefully for damage. The gasket surface should also be inspected for flatness. Light damage and irregularities can be remedied by dressing the surface using fine abrasive paper on a flat surface, or fine grinding paste on a plate of glass. If the surface is reduced too far however, the depth of the slot for the float spindle will become too shallow and may cause difficulties with the operation of the float. Over-tightened Allen bolts, which are a popular modification, can bend the lugs and cause an air leak within the float chamber into the idle circuit. If the lugs are bent the float chamber should be replaced.
Fuel Level
Fuel Level
Although the Concentric carburetter will function across a wide range of fuel levels, an accurate fuel level is the foundation of the overall jetting of the carburetter and makes a significant contribution to the smoothness and performance of an engine
The fuel level is determined during manufacture by the position of the float needle valve seat and should not require adjustment under normal circumstances. For performance tuning or where a carburetter runs consistently rich or weak despite being fitted with the correct jetting, it may be desirable to check the fuel level to establish a calibrated basis for tuning, or re-establish the carburetter within the correct parameters.
Because there have been changes to the float chamber since the Concentric carburetter was introduced, and because there is no way of knowing what alterations may have been made by a previous owner, measuring the fuel level is the best way of setting up the float chamber..
The correct fuel level for all Mark 1 Concentric carburetters is 0.21” plus or minus 0.040” below the top edge of the float bowl. Thus when the needle valve is being held shut by the tangs of the float, the level of the fuel will be between 0.17” to 0.25” (4.33mm to 6.35mm) from the top of the bowl.
The fuel level can be checked by removing the float chamber and observing fuel running into it. The fuel flow should be sufficient to hold the needle valve open until closed by the action of the float. Insufficient fuel flow will cause the needle valve to seal under it's own weight before the float rises far enough to press the valve shut. The level of the fuel can then be measured down from the top surface of the float chamber.
The fuel level can be checked by removing the float chamber and observing fuel running into it. The fuel flow should be sufficient to hold the needle valve open until closed by the action of the float. Insufficient fuel flow will cause the needle valve to seal under it's own weight before the float rises far enough to press the valve shut. The level of the fuel can then be measured down from the top surface of the float chamber.
The fuel level can also be checked by attaching a piece of clear tubing to the bottom of the float chamber. A plastic float chamber drain plug can be modified to mount a suitable spigot, such as an old jet, to attach the tubing. Route the tubing in a vertical position alongside the float chamber. Open the petrol tap and fill the float chamber with fuel. If the fuel level is in the correct range the fuel will rise in the tube to a point between 0.170” and 0.240” below the top edge of the float bowl. Start the engine and ensure the fuel level remains within the correct parameters.
The new Amal “Stay Up” float has stainless steel tangs which can be bent to alter the fuel level. The tangs can be easily adjusted by clamping the float in a vice up to the spindle hooks and tapping the body of the float gently in the direction required until the required level is achieved.
Needle Valve
If your float chamber is fitted with a brass needle valve you may find the valve sealing under its own weight before the float has risen far enough to press it shut. Symptoms of this problem can be that the carburetter takes a long time to tickle, hesitates on pickup, and does not idle reliably. A Viton-tipped aluminium needle valve is now available that overcomes this problem. It is being fitted as standard equipment to all new Mark 1 Concentric carburetters.
Info From Here
Tuesday, 30 October 2012
Mixing Chamber Top and Throttle Slide
Dismantling
Mixing Chamber Top and Throttle Slide
(a) Thoroughly clean the outside of the carburetter
(b) Undo the two screws securing the mixing chamber top and withdraw the throttle valve and needle.
(c) Compress the throttle spring drawing it out of the slide. Holding the spring and top to one side to gain clearance, remove the needle and its securing clip.
(d) Unhook the throttle cable from the slide once the needle is removed.
(e) Compress the air valve spring and unhook the cable to release the air slide, spring and brass tube.
INFO FROM HERE
http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=11
Mixing Chamber Top and Throttle Slide
(a) Thoroughly clean the outside of the carburetter
(b) Undo the two screws securing the mixing chamber top and withdraw the throttle valve and needle.
(c) Compress the throttle spring drawing it out of the slide. Holding the spring and top to one side to gain clearance, remove the needle and its securing clip.
(d) Unhook the throttle cable from the slide once the needle is removed.
(e) Compress the air valve spring and unhook the cable to release the air slide, spring and brass tube.
INFO FROM HERE
http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=11
Float Chamber
Float Chamber
(a) Loosen the screws securing the float chamber ensuring that the float chamber will not drop once the screws are removed. If necessary tap the float chamber lightly with the handle of the screwdriver to break the gasket seal. Keep the float chamber level as you remove it to stop the float mechanism from falling out.
(b) Carefully separate the float chamber gasket from the body or float chamber.
(a) Loosen the screws securing the float chamber ensuring that the float chamber will not drop once the screws are removed. If necessary tap the float chamber lightly with the handle of the screwdriver to break the gasket seal. Keep the float chamber level as you remove it to stop the float mechanism from falling out.
(b) Carefully separate the float chamber gasket from the body or float chamber.
Monday, 29 October 2012
Amal Mark 1 Concentric Carburetter
Notes On Rebuilding the Amal Mark 1 Concentric Carburetter
The Amal Mark 1 Concentric carburetter was introduced onto motorcycles during the 1967 model year. A lighter and more compact carburetter than the preceding Monobloc the name derives from the design of the float chamber around the main jet, an arrangement intended to reduce the effect of fuel surge in the float bowl under cornering and transient throttle conditions.
The carburetter is currently available in two body sizes; the 600 Series in 22mm, 24mm, 26mm and 27mm bore sizes and the 900 Series in 28mm, 30mm, and 32mm bore sizes. A 1000 Series Concentric in 34mm, 36mm, and 38mm bore sizes was dis-continued during the 1970s.
Mark 1 Concentric carburetters are available in 4 Stroke and 2 Stroke configurations and can be left or right handed depending on the position of the tickler mechanism and adjusting screws.
Removing Carburetter
Carburetters should be removed and replaced onto the bike as complete units, with mixing chamber tops and float chambers attached. Failure to do so increases the possibility of warping of the carburetter flange and body.
(a) Run the engine with the fuel taps closed to empty the fuel from the carburetter, or drain the float bowl by removing the float chamber drain plug.
(b) Loosen the fuel banjo bolts and remove the banjos.
(c) Remove the plastic or bronze fuel filters from inside the banjo.
(d) Loosen the carburetter mounting nuts evenly. Take care not to jam or stress the flange on the studs by turning the nut on the tickler side of the body back too far in relation to the other nut.
(e) Remove the nuts and slide the carburetter off the mounting studs.
INFO FROM HERE
http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=11
The Amal Mark 1 Concentric carburetter was introduced onto motorcycles during the 1967 model year. A lighter and more compact carburetter than the preceding Monobloc the name derives from the design of the float chamber around the main jet, an arrangement intended to reduce the effect of fuel surge in the float bowl under cornering and transient throttle conditions.
The carburetter is currently available in two body sizes; the 600 Series in 22mm, 24mm, 26mm and 27mm bore sizes and the 900 Series in 28mm, 30mm, and 32mm bore sizes. A 1000 Series Concentric in 34mm, 36mm, and 38mm bore sizes was dis-continued during the 1970s.
Mark 1 Concentric carburetters are available in 4 Stroke and 2 Stroke configurations and can be left or right handed depending on the position of the tickler mechanism and adjusting screws.
Removing Carburetter
Carburetters should be removed and replaced onto the bike as complete units, with mixing chamber tops and float chambers attached. Failure to do so increases the possibility of warping of the carburetter flange and body.
(a) Run the engine with the fuel taps closed to empty the fuel from the carburetter, or drain the float bowl by removing the float chamber drain plug.
(b) Loosen the fuel banjo bolts and remove the banjos.
(c) Remove the plastic or bronze fuel filters from inside the banjo.
(d) Loosen the carburetter mounting nuts evenly. Take care not to jam or stress the flange on the studs by turning the nut on the tickler side of the body back too far in relation to the other nut.
(e) Remove the nuts and slide the carburetter off the mounting studs.
INFO FROM HERE
http://www.amalcarb.co.uk/TechnicalDetail.aspx?id=11
Sunday, 28 October 2012
MY PHOTO CARBURETTER
Always replace the carburetter fully assembled with the float chamber and mixing chamber top attached. The manifold flange and any heat reducing spacers should be carefully checked and dressed if necessary to ensure they are flat. Bolting the carburetter to a distorted flange or uneven spacer increases the risk of carburetter body or flange distortion.
Mark 1 carburetters are not designed to bolt tightly to the intake flange and may distort if overtightened. It is only necessary to compress the O ring seal to ensure air tightness. When correctly tightened the carburetter flange and engine manifold should be just touching. Nyloc nuts should always be used to mount Amal Mark 1 carburetters and should be tightened to no more than 4 ft lb.
Ensure that throttle and choke cables are able to open and shut freely when the petrol tank is replaced on the bike, and
JETS
Jets
Needle Jets are best replaced as a matter of course especially if the age of the jet is unknown. They are the most vulnerable of the jets to wear with only .001” between sizes and a worn jet will cause very rich running between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle opening.
Replace the needle if there are signs of wear or corrosion, particularly on the parallel section. Check that the needle clip grips the needle securely and is not distorted in any way. The split in the clip is part of the design.
Needle Jets are best replaced as a matter of course especially if the age of the jet is unknown. They are the most vulnerable of the jets to wear with only .001” between sizes and a worn jet will cause very rich running between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle opening.
Replace the needle if there are signs of wear or corrosion, particularly on the parallel section. Check that the needle clip grips the needle securely and is not distorted in any way. The split in the clip is part of the design.
JETS
Jets
Needle Jets are best replaced as a matter of course especially if the age of the jet is unknown. They are the most vulnerable of the jets to wear with only .001” between sizes and a worn jet will cause very rich running between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle opening.
Replace the needle if there are signs of wear or corrosion, particularly on the parallel section. Check that the needle clip grips the needle securely and is not distorted in any way. The split in the clip is part of the design.
Needle Jets are best replaced as a matter of course especially if the age of the jet is unknown. They are the most vulnerable of the jets to wear with only .001” between sizes and a worn jet will cause very rich running between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle opening.
Replace the needle if there are signs of wear or corrosion, particularly on the parallel section. Check that the needle clip grips the needle securely and is not distorted in any way. The split in the clip is part of the design.
Mixing chamber
Mixing chamber
Check and clean all threads in the mixing chamber. If no choke is fitted ensure the opening for the choke cable is sealed with a bolt, (P/N 4/137A) . Replace worn screws and ensure they are correctly fitted with spring washers.
Check the manifold flange against a flat surface to determine if it has been distorted by over-tightening or tightening to an uneven surface. If there is distortion so that the throttle slide jams when the carburetter is bolted to the inlet manifold then the carburetter needs to be replaced. Replace the O ring if there is are any signs of hardening or damage.
Check and clean all threads in the mixing chamber. If no choke is fitted ensure the opening for the choke cable is sealed with a bolt, (P/N 4/137A) . Replace worn screws and ensure they are correctly fitted with spring washers.
Check the manifold flange against a flat surface to determine if it has been distorted by over-tightening or tightening to an uneven surface. If there is distortion so that the throttle slide jams when the carburetter is bolted to the inlet manifold then the carburetter needs to be replaced. Replace the O ring if there is are any signs of hardening or damage.
INFO CARBURETTOR
Notes On Rebuilding the Amal Mark 1 Concentric Carburetter
The Amal Mark 1 Concentric carburetter was introduced onto motorcycles during the 1967 model year. A lighter and more compact carburetter than the preceding Monobloc the name derives from the design of the float chamber around the main jet, an arrangement intended to reduce the effect of fuel surge in the float bowl under cornering and transient throttle conditions.
The carburetter is currently available in two body sizes; the 600 Series in 22mm, 24mm, 26mm and 27mm bore sizes and the 900 Series in 28mm, 30mm, and 32mm bore sizes. A 1000 Series Concentric in 34mm, 36mm, and 38mm bore sizes was dis-continued during the 1970s.
Mark 1 Concentric carburetters are available in 4 Stroke and 2 Stroke configurations and can be left or right handed depending on the position of the tickler mechanism and adjusting screws.
The Amal Mark 1 Concentric carburetter was introduced onto motorcycles during the 1967 model year. A lighter and more compact carburetter than the preceding Monobloc the name derives from the design of the float chamber around the main jet, an arrangement intended to reduce the effect of fuel surge in the float bowl under cornering and transient throttle conditions.
The carburetter is currently available in two body sizes; the 600 Series in 22mm, 24mm, 26mm and 27mm bore sizes and the 900 Series in 28mm, 30mm, and 32mm bore sizes. A 1000 Series Concentric in 34mm, 36mm, and 38mm bore sizes was dis-continued during the 1970s.
Mark 1 Concentric carburetters are available in 4 Stroke and 2 Stroke configurations and can be left or right handed depending on the position of the tickler mechanism and adjusting screws.
CONCENTRIC RANGE
Mk1 Concentric Range
Introduced by Amal in 1967 & available today in 2 body sizes; 600
series (22,24,26mm) & 900 series (28,30,32mm). A set of three 27mm 600
series carbs is available for the Triumph/BSA triples. The float bowl
is positioned concentrically underneath the slide offering improved
fuel feed, even when inclined. Right & left hand versions are
available in most sizes, changing the positions of the tickler button
& adjustment screws. This range is available as a flange mount only,
with 2" hole centres. Alcohol versions can be supplied for the 32 &
34mm sizes.
This Info Tirana Aduka get From here
Introduced by Amal in 1967 & available today in 2 body sizes; 600
series (22,24,26mm) & 900 series (28,30,32mm). A set of three 27mm 600
series carbs is available for the Triumph/BSA triples. The float bowl
is positioned concentrically underneath the slide offering improved
fuel feed, even when inclined. Right & left hand versions are
available in most sizes, changing the positions of the tickler button
& adjustment screws. This range is available as a flange mount only,
with 2" hole centres. Alcohol versions can be supplied for the 32 &
34mm sizes.
This Info Tirana Aduka get From here
My Carburettor Facts
The following is a list of facts relevant to the Amal Mk 1 Concentric
carburetor that may be of assistance to those of you who are
undertaking the task of rebuilding or reconditioning such an
instrument. The information herein has been derived from years of
personal hands-on shop experience, as well as road riding and
racetrack applications. This fact sheet is intended as a supplement to
your shop manuals and your current working knowledge of carburetion
principles.
carburetor that may be of assistance to those of you who are
undertaking the task of rebuilding or reconditioning such an
instrument. The information herein has been derived from years of
personal hands-on shop experience, as well as road riding and
racetrack applications. This fact sheet is intended as a supplement to
your shop manuals and your current working knowledge of carburetion
principles.
INSIDE CARBURETTER
- ADJUSTER
- TOP
- THROTTLE SPRING
- NEEDLE CLIP
- JET NEEDLE
- THROTTLE SLIDE
- MAIN JET
- THROTTLE STOP
- AIR SCREW
- ABUTMENT
- NEEDLE JET
- MAIN JET HOLDER
- FLOAT
- BANJO BOLT
- BENJO
- FLOAT NEEDLE
- FLOAT SPINDLE
- AIR VALVEGUIDE SLEEVE
- AIR VALVE SPRING
- AIR VALVE
- TICKLER
- TICKLER SPRING
- DRAIN PLUG
CONCENTRIC CARBURETTER PHOTO # 1
A : FLOAT
B : INSIDE CARBURETTER
C : SCREW TREADS
D : Tirana Aduka Righ Hand
E : FLOAT SPINDLE BUSH
F : GASKET Space
G : PHOTO BY TiranaAduka
O : FLOAT NEEDLE
O : "AMAL' LOGO
CARBURETTER FUNCTION
|
| CARBURETTER FUNCTION |
The petrol level is maintaineed by a float and needle valve and is nocircumstance, should any alteration be made to these parts. In the event of a leaky float or aworn needle valve, the part should be replaced with new.
( Tips from TiranaAduka do not attempt a grind a needle to it's seat)
The petrol supply to the engine is controlled, firstly , by the main jet and, secondly by means of a taper needle which is attached to the throttle valve and operates in a tubular extension of the main jet.
The main jet controls the mixture fron three-quarters to full throttle, the adjustable taper needle fron three-quartes down to one-quartes throttle, the cut awat partson of the intake side of the throttle valve fron one-quater dwon to about one-eighth throttle, and a pilot jet having an independently adjusted air suply, takes care of the idling fron one-eighth throttle down to the almost closed position.
These various stage og control must be kept in mind when any adjustment is contemplate.
With the standart setting it is possible to use nearly air in all conditions, except.perhaps , when the engine is pulling hard up hill or is on full throttle , when some benefit may be obtained by slightly closing the air control. Weak maxture is always indicated by popping or spiting at the air intake.
A rich mixture usually causes bumpy or jerky,running and, in cases of extreme richness, is accompanied by the emmision of black smoke from the exhaust.
Friday, 26 October 2012
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Tirana Aduka And Amal Carburetor Part 3
Remove Two Screw
By TiranaAduka
Photo By TiranaAduka
A : Upper SIDE
B : Down SIDE
Tirana Aduka A Triumph bike's
Amal Concentric Carburator N.O.S
TiranaAduka And Amal Carburetor PART 1
REMOVE TOP
CARBURETOR
Amal Concentric Carburetor
REMOVE
THROTTLE SPRING
PHOTO
By
More
AMAL COCENTRIC CARBURETOR
When my Triumph bath tub is idling, maxture is supplied from the pilot jet system, then as the throttle slide is rised, via the pilot by pass.
The mixture is then controlled by the tepered needle working in the needle jet , and finally by the size of the main jet.
The pilot system is supplied by a pilot jet ,which is
Tirana Aduka And Amal Cocentric Carburetor
LOVE TO SHARE HOW TO OPERATES
AMAL COCENTRIC
CARBURETOR
By Tirana Aduka A Triumph Rider
MY AMAL CONCENTRIC CARBURETOR
MY
AMAL
CONCERNTIC
CARBURETOR
Made In England
TRIUMPH BATH TUB
Triumph Bath Tub the name of my bike.. still looking good..British Made
350 cc..
Long story about it..
A wonderful Motorcycle i have
TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL
Raise the machine by placing a 3 in. thick wooden block underneath the center stand. Ensure that the machine is in gear and remove the rear chain connecting link. Remove the left muffler. Remove the wheel spindle nut, and withdraw the spindle from the left side. Cpllect an adjuster and end cap from each side of the swinging fork. Detach the speedometer cable from the drive box. The brake caliper can now be swung down out of the way and the wheel removed.
Replacement is the reversal of the removel procedure but always remember to swing the brake caliper back into position and relocate the support plate on the wheel spindle.Finally check the rear chain adjustment and wheel alignment.
Rear Wheel
The rear wheel hub bearings are of the non-adjustable ball journal type, or roller taper bearing ( i change it, and made in Italy). A detachable steel sprocket bolted to the hub by four bolts.
Replacement is the reversal of the removel procedure but always remember to swing the brake caliper back into position and relocate the support plate on the wheel spindle.Finally check the rear chain adjustment and wheel alignment.
Rear Wheel
The rear wheel hub bearings are of the non-adjustable ball journal type, or roller taper bearing ( i change it, and made in Italy). A detachable steel sprocket bolted to the hub by four bolts.
BRAKE BURNISHING PROCEDURE
Brakes should be bedded in progressively during the first 300 miles. This is done by gradually increasing brake lever pressure during the period and braking from progressively in creasing speeds.
For guidance refer to my list down here.
Stage 1
A minimum of 20 stops using the front at rear brakes together. Decelerate from 30 m.p.h to rest using the distance travelled or time taken to obtain the required deceleration.
Stage 2
For guidance refer to my list down here.
Stage 1
A minimum of 20 stops using the front at rear brakes together. Decelerate from 30 m.p.h to rest using the distance travelled or time taken to obtain the required deceleration.
Stage 2
Wednesday, 24 October 2012
Battery
SPARK PLUG
 |
| SPARK PLUG |
To remove a sparking plug use the box spanner and short tommy bar provided in the toolkit. If the plug is difficult to unscrew, poor some penetrating oil round the threads and allow it to soak before continuing
I change my sparking plug every 2,000 miles, I remove the sparking plug and tested on the plug cleaning machine. If there is no plug cleaning machine available use a penknife or wire brush to remove carbon deposit. Measure the gap with feeler gauge ; The correct setting is 0.025 in(0.653 mm) . To adjust the gap bend the side electrode but never the centre electrode. Every 10,000 miles fit new spark plug
IGNITION TIMING - part 2
Ignition Timing Part 2
There are two slots in the flywheel , one at 38 degree and one at top dead centre ( T.D.C). When timing is above check with a aparking plug, removed that the PISTONS are not at T.D.C which would indicate the wrong slot being located. The T.D.C plug is for degree plate use only
The second method necessitates removel of the circular plate at the forward end of the primary chaincase. Through the aperture will be seen the timing marking on the rotor casting and this aligns with a pointer on the primary chaincase at the adge of the aperture. Placing the rotor making in line with the pointer again gives the 38 degree timing position
Remove both sparking plug to facilitate over the engine. Set both sets of contact breaking gap. Set the engine at 38 degree with the contact breaker cam turned clockwise to thefully advanced position
Check the left hand points (Black and Yellow Lead) which should just be starting to open. If they are not, slacken both the pillar bolt and turn the contact breaker main backplate.
Turn clockwise if the points open too early and vise versa.
When correct lock up the backplate, remove the flyweel locating pluger if used and turn the engine again at 38 degree ( one revolusion)
Set the engine again at 38 degree. Check the cam is still at the fully advance position and check at the second set of contacts are just starting to open. If there is any discrepancy , slacken the secondary backplate top and bottom screws and using the eccentric adjuster screw move the backplate to achieve the correct opening point.
The timing is now correct. Re- lubricates the felts with 4 drops of clean engine oil and refit the cap.
There are two slots in the flywheel , one at 38 degree and one at top dead centre ( T.D.C). When timing is above check with a aparking plug, removed that the PISTONS are not at T.D.C which would indicate the wrong slot being located. The T.D.C plug is for degree plate use only
The second method necessitates removel of the circular plate at the forward end of the primary chaincase. Through the aperture will be seen the timing marking on the rotor casting and this aligns with a pointer on the primary chaincase at the adge of the aperture. Placing the rotor making in line with the pointer again gives the 38 degree timing position
Remove both sparking plug to facilitate over the engine. Set both sets of contact breaking gap. Set the engine at 38 degree with the contact breaker cam turned clockwise to thefully advanced position
Check the left hand points (Black and Yellow Lead) which should just be starting to open. If they are not, slacken both the pillar bolt and turn the contact breaker main backplate.
Turn clockwise if the points open too early and vise versa.
When correct lock up the backplate, remove the flyweel locating pluger if used and turn the engine again at 38 degree ( one revolusion)
Set the engine again at 38 degree. Check the cam is still at the fully advance position and check at the second set of contacts are just starting to open. If there is any discrepancy , slacken the secondary backplate top and bottom screws and using the eccentric adjuster screw move the backplate to achieve the correct opening point.
The timing is now correct. Re- lubricates the felts with 4 drops of clean engine oil and refit the cap.
IGNITION TIMING part 1
When replacing the contacts breaker it must be position correctly reletive to the exhaust camshaf. A pin is provided in the exhaust camshaft and a slot in the taper end of the auto advance spindle serves as a location
The ingnation contact breaker is in the timing cover on the right of the motorcycle and is driven by the exhaust camshaft. There is a round chrominium-plated cover over it held by two screws. To remove the timing cover ( cam and auto-advance assembly) must be release from the camshaft. to realese the contact breaker remove the central bolt and use extractor tool.. ...it into the end of the hollow spindle
For timing purpose two alternative methods have been used for setting the engine in the 38* fully advance position.
Contin
The ingnation contact breaker is in the timing cover on the right of the motorcycle and is driven by the exhaust camshaft. There is a round chrominium-plated cover over it held by two screws. To remove the timing cover ( cam and auto-advance assembly) must be release from the camshaft. to realese the contact breaker remove the central bolt and use extractor tool.. ...it into the end of the hollow spindle
For timing purpose two alternative methods have been used for setting the engine in the 38* fully advance position.
Contin
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