MY PHOTO CARBURETTER

Replacing the carburetter

Always replace the carburetter fully assembled with the float chamber and mixing chamber top attached. The manifold flange and any heat reducing spacers should be carefully checked and dressed if necessary to ensure they are flat. Bolting the carburetter to a distorted flange or uneven spacer increases the risk of carburetter body or flange distortion.

Mark 1 carburetters are not designed to bolt tightly to the intake flange and may distort if overtightened. It is only necessary to compress the O ring seal to ensure air tightness. When correctly tightened the carburetter flange and engine manifold should be just touching. Nyloc nuts should always be used to mount Amal Mark 1 carburetters and should be tightened to no more than 4 ft lb.

Ensure that throttle and choke cables are able to open and shut freely when the petrol tank is replaced on the bike, and

TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL

Raise the machine by placing a 3 in. thick wooden block underneath the center stand. Ensure that the machine is in gear and remove the rear chain connecting link. Remove the left muffler. Remove the wheel spindle nut, and withdraw the spindle from the left side. Cpllect an adjuster and  end cap from each side of the swinging fork. Detach the speedometer cable from the drive box. The brake caliper can now be swung down out of the way and the wheel removed.

Replacement is the reversal of the removel procedure but always remember to swing the brake caliper back into position and relocate the support plate on the wheel spindle.Finally check the rear chain adjustment and wheel alignment.

Rear Wheel
The rear wheel hub bearings are of the non-adjustable ball journal type, or roller taper bearing ( i change it, and made in Italy). A detachable steel sprocket bolted to the hub by four bolts.