Jets
Needle Jets are best replaced as a matter of course especially if the age of the jet is unknown. They are the most vulnerable of the jets to wear with only .001” between sizes and a worn jet will cause very rich running between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle opening.
Replace the needle if there are signs of wear or corrosion, particularly on the parallel section. Check that the needle clip grips the needle securely and is not distorted in any way. The split in the clip is part of the design.
Showing posts with label motorcycle. Show all posts
Showing posts with label motorcycle. Show all posts
Sunday, 28 October 2012
JETS
Jets
Needle Jets are best replaced as a matter of course especially if the age of the jet is unknown. They are the most vulnerable of the jets to wear with only .001” between sizes and a worn jet will cause very rich running between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle opening.
Replace the needle if there are signs of wear or corrosion, particularly on the parallel section. Check that the needle clip grips the needle securely and is not distorted in any way. The split in the clip is part of the design.
Needle Jets are best replaced as a matter of course especially if the age of the jet is unknown. They are the most vulnerable of the jets to wear with only .001” between sizes and a worn jet will cause very rich running between 1/4 and 3/4 throttle opening.
Replace the needle if there are signs of wear or corrosion, particularly on the parallel section. Check that the needle clip grips the needle securely and is not distorted in any way. The split in the clip is part of the design.
INSIDE CARBURETTER
- ADJUSTER
- TOP
- THROTTLE SPRING
- NEEDLE CLIP
- JET NEEDLE
- THROTTLE SLIDE
- MAIN JET
- THROTTLE STOP
- AIR SCREW
- ABUTMENT
- NEEDLE JET
- MAIN JET HOLDER
- FLOAT
- BANJO BOLT
- BENJO
- FLOAT NEEDLE
- FLOAT SPINDLE
- AIR VALVEGUIDE SLEEVE
- AIR VALVE SPRING
- AIR VALVE
- TICKLER
- TICKLER SPRING
- DRAIN PLUG
CARBURETTER FUNCTION
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| CARBURETTER FUNCTION |
The petrol level is maintaineed by a float and needle valve and is nocircumstance, should any alteration be made to these parts. In the event of a leaky float or aworn needle valve, the part should be replaced with new.
( Tips from TiranaAduka do not attempt a grind a needle to it's seat)
The petrol supply to the engine is controlled, firstly , by the main jet and, secondly by means of a taper needle which is attached to the throttle valve and operates in a tubular extension of the main jet.
The main jet controls the mixture fron three-quarters to full throttle, the adjustable taper needle fron three-quartes down to one-quartes throttle, the cut awat partson of the intake side of the throttle valve fron one-quater dwon to about one-eighth throttle, and a pilot jet having an independently adjusted air suply, takes care of the idling fron one-eighth throttle down to the almost closed position.
These various stage og control must be kept in mind when any adjustment is contemplate.
With the standart setting it is possible to use nearly air in all conditions, except.perhaps , when the engine is pulling hard up hill or is on full throttle , when some benefit may be obtained by slightly closing the air control. Weak maxture is always indicated by popping or spiting at the air intake.
A rich mixture usually causes bumpy or jerky,running and, in cases of extreme richness, is accompanied by the emmision of black smoke from the exhaust.
Friday, 26 October 2012
TO REMOVE THE REAR WHEEL
Raise the machine by placing a 3 in. thick wooden block underneath the center stand. Ensure that the machine is in gear and remove the rear chain connecting link. Remove the left muffler. Remove the wheel spindle nut, and withdraw the spindle from the left side. Cpllect an adjuster and end cap from each side of the swinging fork. Detach the speedometer cable from the drive box. The brake caliper can now be swung down out of the way and the wheel removed.
Replacement is the reversal of the removel procedure but always remember to swing the brake caliper back into position and relocate the support plate on the wheel spindle.Finally check the rear chain adjustment and wheel alignment.
Rear Wheel
The rear wheel hub bearings are of the non-adjustable ball journal type, or roller taper bearing ( i change it, and made in Italy). A detachable steel sprocket bolted to the hub by four bolts.
Replacement is the reversal of the removel procedure but always remember to swing the brake caliper back into position and relocate the support plate on the wheel spindle.Finally check the rear chain adjustment and wheel alignment.
Rear Wheel
The rear wheel hub bearings are of the non-adjustable ball journal type, or roller taper bearing ( i change it, and made in Italy). A detachable steel sprocket bolted to the hub by four bolts.
Wednesday, 24 October 2012
IGNITION TIMING - part 2
Ignition Timing Part 2
There are two slots in the flywheel , one at 38 degree and one at top dead centre ( T.D.C). When timing is above check with a aparking plug, removed that the PISTONS are not at T.D.C which would indicate the wrong slot being located. The T.D.C plug is for degree plate use only
The second method necessitates removel of the circular plate at the forward end of the primary chaincase. Through the aperture will be seen the timing marking on the rotor casting and this aligns with a pointer on the primary chaincase at the adge of the aperture. Placing the rotor making in line with the pointer again gives the 38 degree timing position
Remove both sparking plug to facilitate over the engine. Set both sets of contact breaking gap. Set the engine at 38 degree with the contact breaker cam turned clockwise to thefully advanced position
Check the left hand points (Black and Yellow Lead) which should just be starting to open. If they are not, slacken both the pillar bolt and turn the contact breaker main backplate.
Turn clockwise if the points open too early and vise versa.
When correct lock up the backplate, remove the flyweel locating pluger if used and turn the engine again at 38 degree ( one revolusion)
Set the engine again at 38 degree. Check the cam is still at the fully advance position and check at the second set of contacts are just starting to open. If there is any discrepancy , slacken the secondary backplate top and bottom screws and using the eccentric adjuster screw move the backplate to achieve the correct opening point.
The timing is now correct. Re- lubricates the felts with 4 drops of clean engine oil and refit the cap.
There are two slots in the flywheel , one at 38 degree and one at top dead centre ( T.D.C). When timing is above check with a aparking plug, removed that the PISTONS are not at T.D.C which would indicate the wrong slot being located. The T.D.C plug is for degree plate use only
The second method necessitates removel of the circular plate at the forward end of the primary chaincase. Through the aperture will be seen the timing marking on the rotor casting and this aligns with a pointer on the primary chaincase at the adge of the aperture. Placing the rotor making in line with the pointer again gives the 38 degree timing position
Remove both sparking plug to facilitate over the engine. Set both sets of contact breaking gap. Set the engine at 38 degree with the contact breaker cam turned clockwise to thefully advanced position
Check the left hand points (Black and Yellow Lead) which should just be starting to open. If they are not, slacken both the pillar bolt and turn the contact breaker main backplate.
Turn clockwise if the points open too early and vise versa.
When correct lock up the backplate, remove the flyweel locating pluger if used and turn the engine again at 38 degree ( one revolusion)
Set the engine again at 38 degree. Check the cam is still at the fully advance position and check at the second set of contacts are just starting to open. If there is any discrepancy , slacken the secondary backplate top and bottom screws and using the eccentric adjuster screw move the backplate to achieve the correct opening point.
The timing is now correct. Re- lubricates the felts with 4 drops of clean engine oil and refit the cap.
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